We cross the Romanian border on the Sunday morning of 25th June near the town of Oradea. We have nearly two months of journey planned. During the first days we cross the mountains of Piatra Craiului and Vladeasa and reach the range of Bihor. On the way there, we pay quick visits to the numerous lakes in that area, including the Dragan with its spectacular dam that brought it to life.
In the Bihor we drive to the top of Cucurbata Mare (1848m) to have a roll in the snow - an opportunity we could not have possibly missed in the July`s +30 C temperatures. Rambling around the Bihor, looking for new adventures and refreshing last year`s memories, we explore a few caves and old mines. We do not miss the areas of Avram Iank and the peak of Cain Cruise (1446m), important to the Romanians. 

Moving on towards the mountains of Metaliferi, we pay a flying visit to the city of Deva for a small shopping and quick look around the stunning ruins towering over the city. Our journey from Deva to Arad with the intention of seeing its fortress proves futile, as it still serves as military premises without public access. To cheer ourselves up, we stop at the picturesque ruins of Soimos castle.

We go back to Deva and from there head for the breath-taking Sureanu Mountains. We climb from the west side towards the Prislop chalet, and wander around the highland pastures. The shepherds host us in their "klecia", a cabin where they spend the summer. One of the rooms serves as the kitchen and the bedroom in one. Skin-covered cots are placed around the central fire, above which big and small pots and pans hang from the ceiling. The other room is bigger, brighter and spanking clean - this is where a beautiful variety of cheeses and other dairy produce is being made and stored. We have the pleasure of tasting some of that unique produce, the shepherds are very hospitable. 
From the Sureanu we cross the Cindrel Mountains towards Sibiu. We do not stop there though, as we remember it well from the last year, and due to the unbearable heat we also skip the necessary shopping trip and go straight to the Fagaras Mountains. We planned our two-day "recovery" stop in the northern parts of the mountains. The plan was: two nights in the same place, laundry, vehicle tidying and de-cluttering, and long relaxing lying-in with all four wheels in the air. But already in the first afternoon, having done the necessary household stuff, we decided we were bored out of our minds sitting about so we eagerly hit the road again. That`s travel frenzy! 

We enter the region of Sighisoara which is rich in fortified churches and small castles. Some of them are still in excellent condition, accessible for tourists or used as venues for local community activities. For others time has not been that kind. Apart from the monumental buildings, and despite the pleasant scenery of gently rolling hills and picturesque villages, the region is not very interesting, particularly in that heat. All the brooks look like muddy sewages, many have completely dried out. I could not help it but nickname that area "The Death Valley", all because of the impossibility of cooling down our heavily panting dog. 

We head quickly for Harghita Mountains, and as always we are hit by heavy downpours and storms. 
The valleys of the mountains will be soon lost for wilderness. Hundreds of houses are popping up everywhere, fences, and barbed wires. I think I know why I do not like those mountains. EU sponsors this and that, the flavour of Romania is being taken over by the Hungarian one, unfortunately in a rather tasteless fashion. Luckily, we manage to discover a secluded unspoilt piece of almost lost paradise - just for us. From here, our route leads us through Georgheni to the Gurghiu Mountains, then to the Hasmas and Bicas Chej, and finally in the Tarcau and Bodoc Mountains and Brasov. 

Due to the terrible heat and our dislike for crowded streets, we visit Brasov by night. It is really beautiful, and so is the nearby castle in Rasnov. We head for the Bucegi and climb to the top of Costila (2495m). From there we explore the rest for the National Park. At the foot of the mountains there is far too much civilization for our taste. 

We flee from there heading for the Retezat across the southern Fagaras, welcomed by nothing but rain and thunder. By the time we reach the Lotrului, the weather improves, although that is debatable, as instead of constant rain, the occasional downpours of hail put the life of our windscreen at serious risk. 
Slowly, across Retezat, Deva and Bihor we make our way back to Oradea, where we are joined by a few more vehicles. 

With the group, we go back to the Craiului, the Vladeasa Mnts., the lakes, and the Bihor Mnts., this time in a much more moderate, tourist style. We spend quite a while in Padis National Park, exploring the caves and hiking. 

Next, we drive again to the top of Cucurbata Mare (1848m), but by now the snow has gone. The visit to the area of Avram Ianku and the nearby peak of Cain Cruise (1446m) of exceptional importance to the Romanians, offers us an extraordinary experience. We land there in the middle of a Romanian holiday commemorating Aram Ianku. We carry on across mountain ranges of the Gilauli Metaliferi, quick visit to Deva; from there we turn to drop in to Hunedoara. 

We go back to the Sureanu, and spend a lot of time there rambling, hiking; we climb a few peaks, including Varfu Iui Patru (2130m). Although it is a lazy, tourist drive, the experience is exciting and the impressions stunning. 

From Sureanu we turn towards Sibiu. For a taste of local cuisine at a very reasonable price, we recommend La Turn, right on the main square of the city. On the way out, we go down the Transfagarasan road. Having just come out alive from some extreme off-road passages, we are not particularly impressed or intimidated by this famous stretch of road. On the other side of the Fagaras, we pay a mandatory visit to the real home of Dracula. In Campulung we say good-bye to Sławek and his crew, who go back to Poland after only a 10-day tour. On the way out, they pay a visit to the castle of Bran. 
When we reach Bucegi, we spend some time driving around the National Park, and climb the Costila (2495m) again, then visit the impressive Rasnov castle. In Brasov, traditionally, we do evening sightseeing. From there we take a quick fly on tarmac to the northern part of the Fagaras. In the morning, we follow the route of the fortified churches. In one of them we meet a Polish girl, who is involved in the reconstruction of the church as a fund project. 
We go to Sighisoara, where we part with Janusz and his crew. Andrzej and Krzysiek are still with us, and in the evening that day we meet up to have a look at a medieval festival in the city. Unfortunately, the event turns out to be more of a rock music festival than proper medieval games, which is a shame, as the city perfectly lends itself for such an occasion. We leave the city in the small hours and spend the night on one of the surrounding hills. 

The following parts of the expedition involve some very demanding off-road. Going down from the mountains to Toplita, we cross the Hasmas Mnts., the pass of Balaj, Bursu, Cariei, Rotunda, and Saua Gatei. Hidden in the thick rain, we approach Rodnei Mnts. Here, the weather decides to have a play at our expense. Once we start climbing, thunder and gales start, so we back off to let it go past. At our every attempt the fun starts again. After three days of efforts to move forward, and sleeping amongst the howling storms, we decide to back out. What is more, I do not have a spare axle any more, as I used one a few days before in Calimani. The stormy conditions we were faced with here left us with few chances to take without the spares. We leave Rodnei for next year. 

Before setting for the return journey, we pay a visit to Cluj Napoca, traditionally - in the evening. After a quick jump on tarmac to the Craiuli Mnts., we spend our last nigh in Romania in a pleasant quiet valley. In the morning, accompanied by wild pigs, grazing horses and cows, we get ready for the journey home. I replace a few parts, and tighten a screw here and there. Then we head for Oradea. 

In the city we run into some celebrations, so we join in, postponing the moment of having to leave. We consider the option of going to Padis for a few days, but as we are out of cooking gas, dog food (very difficult to find here and twice as expensive as in Poland), and spares, topped up with physical exhaustion, the decision scale is easily tipped towards heading for the border. We leave Romania on 6th August, totally knackered after 42 days of mountain off-road. We reach Poland at midnight, and decide to pay a flying visit in the Bieszczady. But having spent a month in the wild and deserted mountains of Romania, going to the Polish mountains in the middle of a tourist season proves to be a big mistake. Disappointed, we go to Kraków. A few days there let us recover some energy for the final journey back home - to Zbrojewo. 

Romania is slightly more expensive than Poland. This goes for food as well as fuel. Overall, gas prices are comparable. It is worthwhile to use a car that does over 600 km to a 100 l. 
I recommend Lukoili petrol stations. The service is nice, they offer a big range of products, and you can pay with plastic cards. One exception is Lukoili in Deva, where the personnel were trying to convince me to paying in euros by very lousy exchange rate, claiming the terminals were out of order. But that was the only case this time around, when somebody was trying to cheat me. 
I also used other petrol stations, and have no complaints, until started filling up in Poland again... 

Main roads in Romania are a nightmare - crowded with speeding lorries; cutting corners and multiple overtaking are common practices. 
Minor roads are a totally different story - polite, lazy and laid-back driving style. 

People`s safety: 
We spent 42 days in Romania, 30 without any company and one vehicle. We slept anywhere we got tired, often near villages, often in total wilderness. Never ever have I felt in any sort of danger. We were met with great hospitality from the locals. 
There are quite a lot of police in the streets (not in the mountains of course), and their number seems to have risen since last year. 
Safety in the mountains:
The mountains are for those who can think - nothing else can be said here. Driving, especially with one vehicle can be very tough. Sometimes it is better to let go, rather than take a stubborn risk. Although I know a fair bit about it, and was trained in off-road driving in the mountains, there were parts I would put Karol and the dog out of the car before tackling a section. Some places I would have only approached with two cars, but not alone. We took more risks towards the end, in the 5th and 6th week, when having experienced a lot, we were not so afraid of taking an early leave due to "killing" the car. Fortunately, we managed without major breakdowns. 
Money:
You should always have local currency. It is too easy to find yourself in areas where cash point and money exchange are unknown terms. 
Food:
There is no point in dragging bags of food from Poland, as you can buy everything easily at prices similar to Polish. 

Technical problems:

1. Front diff, right at the start, for no apparent reason
Replaced, the broken one to turn back (mileage ca. 1500 km)
2. Brake pads, worn out in 14 days on clay
Replaced from spares
3. Bent bars
Fixed routinely 
4. Shock absorber, destroyed 
In the mountains we drive without it, I put a spare one in for road journeys. 5-minute work, and what a saving!
5. Bearing, front left
Replaced from spares
6. puncture 
Tire centre 
7. Oil leakage
Welded in a garage
8. Long rear semi-axle 
Replaced from spares
9.  (replaced before the journey)
I managed to roll home on loose, but one of the tires got eaten off
10. Two cross-pieces (front bridge)
Replaced in a garage in Kraków, Skośna Street (lots of thanks for the guys in there - great and 
quick job!)

Summary:
42 days of very intensive driving, rambling and exploring totally exhausted us. Most of it was our own fault, and the explorer`s frenzy that possessed us - more, faster, harder! Without a day of rest, we cover over 6000 km through the mountains. 
We were exploring caves, old mines, rivers and streams. We were climbing mountain peaks - in the car or sometimes on foot. Day after day, we would start our journey at dawn and carry on till sometimes very late night. The July heat was unbearable with no hope for shade, the bright nights did not give us a chance for enough sleep. 
Our total exhaustion was our own making, there was absolutely no reason why we could not have taken it calmer, spending more time resting. We would sleep mainly in the car, sometimes outside. The group that travelled with us for 11 days preferred bed & breakfast or tents. As for me, fighting with the tent every night and every morning, especially in the rain is not worth the hassle. 

It was fantastic! We are going back next year

NORBERT, KAROL     AND   SZPERA    / THE    DOG /